5 min read
What you need
A heat press (or EasyPress, or iron), a hard flat surface, parchment paper or a Teflon sheet, and your transfers.
Step by step
1
Cut your transfers apart.
Trim around each design with scissors or a paper trimmer. Leave a small margin — you don’t need to cut tight to the artwork.
2
Pre-press the garment.
5–10 seconds with the press closed. This drives out moisture and flattens wrinkles. Skipping this step is the single most common cause of a bad transfer.
3
Position the transfer.
Printed side down, film side up. A common placement is about 3 fingers down from the collar seam, centered between the shoulder seams.
4
Cover it.
Lay parchment paper or a Teflon sheet over the transfer.
5
Press.
- Cotton and blends: 300–320°F for 10–15 seconds
- Polyester and performance fabrics: 260–280°F for 15–20 seconds — lower heat protects the fabric and reduces dye migration
- Pressure: Medium-firm. You should have to lean on the handle a bit to close it.
6
Peel — hot or cold, your call. Our film handles both.
- Hot peel: lift the film immediately after the press opens, in one smooth continuous motion. Fastest option for production.
- Cold peel: let the transfer cool completely — usually 30–60 seconds — then peel. Slightly matte finish and more forgiving if you get distracted.
Either way, peel in one motion rather than stopping partway.
7
Post-press.
Cover the design with parchment and press again for 5–10 seconds. This step improves durability and knocks down the shine into a softer matte finish. Don’t skip it.
A few notes
- A slightly tacky or thick feel right after peeling is normal. It settles after the post-press and the first wash.
- Test on a scrap or an inexpensive blank before you commit a customer’s garment.
- Different blanks behave differently. Heavyweight cotton and thin poly performance wear are not the same job.